Local Information
It is recommended that if you visit Canterbury it might be a good idea to print out this page and bring it with you, because it contains a lot of information about Canterbury, restaurants and the Cathedral which you might find interesting when you arrive here.
Population around 36,000
A little history.
Canterbury's greatest treasure is its magnificent Cathedral, the successor to the church St Augustine built in 597, after he began converting the English people to Christianity. After the martyrdom of the Archbishop Thomas Becket in 1170, the Cathedral became the centre of one of the most important pilgrimages in Europe, immortalised by Geoffrey Chaucer in his book 'The Canterbury Tales'.
The first settlement on the site of Canterbury dates back to the 1st century BC when there was a Celtic community on either side of the River Stour. It became an important place under the Romans, and after they left, the Jutes (from southern Scandinavia) settled the city. In 597 St.Augustine arrived, he began his mission at the court of King Ethelbert, whose wife Bertha was already a Christian. Augustine successfully converted the King and many of his most important courtiers and subjects to Christianity.
Augustine founded a Benedictine monastery and abbey, and the city was established as the centre of the English church. Canterbury thrived both under the Anglo-Saxons and those great cathedral builders, the Normans. The Cathedral's fame, however, did not eclipse that of St.Augustines Abbey until after the murder of Archbishop Becket in the Cathedral in 1170.
In12th century England the tension between the church and the state reached breaking point when King Henry II refused to accept the independence of the Roman church and the authority of a foreign Pope. Before Henry made him Archbishop, Becket had been a loyal and worldly courtier, a close friend of the King famed for his brilliance and luxurious lifestyle. Henry II thought that Becket would be an ally in his battle with the Pope, but he was wrong. From the time that he became Archbishop in 1162, Beckett completely renounced his old lifestyle and his friend the King. In 1170, the personal and political conflict reached a tragic and brutal conclusion when four of Henry's knights, apparently without the King's knowledge, cut down and killed the archbishop in the Cathedral.
Within hours of the murder, rumours of miracles spread and a few years after his death Becket was made a saint. His jewel encrusted shrine mounted prominently in the Cathedral became the most important place of pilgrimage in England and increasingly throughout Europe. However, as Geoffrey Chaucer observed, for many the pilgrimage quickly became an excuse for a holiday and Canterbury's merchants and traders thrived on the increased income.
Nearly four hundred years after his death, Becket again became a victim of the battle between the church and the state when Henry VIII acted to dissolve the increasingly corrupt monasteries. In 1538 St. Augustine's Abbey was demolished and St. Thomas's shrine, his remains and relics were totally destroyed. Amazingly, the ruins of St. Augustine's Abbey have remained in remarkably good condition and to this day they are still visited by thousands of modern day pilgrims.
Centuries of stability followed all of the turmoil, which strengthened the position of the Church of England and of the city of Canterbury itself.
The Archbishop of Canterbury is the head of the Church of England and the leader of a worldwide Anglican Communion. He plays an important symbolic and leadership role but, unlike the Pope, has little direct authority. The Cathedral is considered to be one of the most beautiful of its type anywhere in Britain. It is certainly one of the most impressive and evocative of Cathedrals, where the ghosts of saints, soldiers and pilgrims seem to crowd around and whose energies still enrich the huge atmosphere inside the Cathedral. ( See below for an in depth piece about the Cathedral )
The City of Canterbury was severely damaged by bombing during the second world war (1939-1945), and parts of the city, especially to the south of the city and cathedral have been rebuilt with sensitivity. The narrow streets and tiny shops still evoke an ambience of bygone times - being an irresistible draw to photographers and artists for centuries. The city is busy throughout the year with tourists, being busiest during the summer months.
Places to Visit.
The Canterbury Tales Centre St. Margaret's St, provides an immensely entertaining insight into Chaucer's often bawdy classic tales. The general concept is a recreation of the journey of a pilgrim from London to Canterbury. With the use of animatronic characters and real actors and actresses the whole experience is educational in a light hearted way. The centre is open all year from 9.30am to 5.30pm (4.30pm November to February).
The Royal Museum & Art Gallery, on the High Street, has military memorabilia and works by local artists: entry is free.
West Gate & Museum, dating from the 14th Century, is the only remaining city gate. It only survived because for centuries it was used as a prison; it is now a small museum featuring arms and armour. During the Second World War a machine gun emplacement was mounted on the roof of the tower. Open all year.
Canterbury Heritage Museum, (tel. 01227 452747), in Stour Street, in a converted 14th Century building, gives a good coverage of the City's history and local characters who include Rupert Bear and Joseph Conrad. The building, once the Poor Priests Hospital, is worth visiting in its own right. It's open all year from 10.30 am to 5 pm.
The interesting Roman Museum (built underground around the remains of a Roman Town house in Butchery Lane, opposite Shakespeare's Inn) you get to visit the marketplace, smell the odours of a Roman kitchen, handle artefacts and take a computer generated tour of the town house. Open throughout the year.
St. Augustine's Abbey (tel. 01227 767345, situated in Longport). King Henry VIII acted with thoroughness when St. Augustine's Abbey was destroyed in 1538, only foundations now remain, there's an excellent museum and a worthwhile audio tour.
St. Martins Church, is believed to be the oldest parish church in England. St. Martin's predates St. Augustine and is probably Roman in origin. To reach the church continue 250m past St. Augustine's Abbey and take the first road left, the church is on the right after 100m.
Greyfriars Monastery, this is the first Franciscan (the Grey Friars) monastery in England, founded in 1267. The picturesque building spans a small branch of the River Stour, and includes an upstairs chapel that is open to the public from mid-May to September, Monday to Saturday. Eucharist is celebrated every Wednesday at 12.30pm
Useful Information.
The Canterbury Visitor Information Centre is situated immediately in front of the Cathedral entrance in the Buttermarket. It is open daily from 9.30 am to 5 pm (5.30pm in the summer). Staffed by a very helpful group of well informed assistants. The Information Centre should always be your first port of call when you visit the City, it has a wealth of local information leaflets and maps, and the staff are on hand to answer all of your questions. Guided walks start from here daily from early April to October. The cost is around £3.50. The walks take 1-2 hours and explore the cathedral precincts, King's School, and the town's medieval centre.
Daily from May to October there are chauffeured trips on a punt along the river, these depart from the West Gate bridge, behind the Weavers House restaurant. The entertaining and informative commentary provided by the guide is guaranteed to raise a smile whilst you learn a little about life on the river.
Canterbury is 58 miles ( 93 km ) from London. It is therefore a perfect place to stay whilst you travel for a day trip into London. The National Express Coach ( www.nationalexpress.com ) departs Canterbury Bus Station (10mins walk from Ersham Lodge) 17 times a day. The coach will drop you off in London's Victoria station which has excellent connections to all of London's attractions by the Underground railway network. There are two railway stations in Canterbury, Canterbury East with direct rail connections to Victoria Station in London, and Canterbury West accessible to London's Charing Cross and Waterloo stations. Canterbury East is the nearest railway station to Ersham Lodge , it can be reached on foot in 20mins, or by a short taxi cab ride. British Railway timetables and fares can be easily found on the internet at www.travelinfosystems.com
Internet and e-mail access is available at a number of locations in the city centre. Next door to the Visitor Information Centre is Debenhams who have an Internet Cafe, Mail Boxes Etc ( 17a Burgate ), and the library in the High Street.
A launderette in Dover Street ( 5-7 mins from Ersham Lodge) is open daily where you can machine wash and tumble dry everything yourself, or you do a 'service' wash and leave your soiled laundry with the staff and call back later to pick it up.
Restaurants.
The crowds of daily pilgrims who venture into Canterbury ensure that there is a good range of reasonable priced eating places available.
Firstly, for something simple there is a food supermarket just five minutes walk from the Ersham Lodge, where you can buy fresh fruit, sandwiches, drinks and much more.
Adjacent to Safeways is an 'all you can eat' Cafe de China, (tel. 01227 781523 ) is a Chinese restaurant with prices set at £12.50 per head.
Further along New Dover Road and next door to the Odeon Cinema (www.odeon.co.uk) is the Chicago Rock Cafe, which is rebranding as Chill and opens in July 2008
For a snack or light meal, St.Pierre, (tel 01227 456791, 41 St.Peters St) is an excellent French bakery and cafe. Here is simply the best range of fresh pastries and French breads to be found anywhere in Canterbury, also excellent coffee is served here.
Whilst we are discussing restaurants with a Gallic feel we have to mention Jacques, (www.jacquesrestaurant.co.uk/1024/index.html) (tel 01227 78100), 71 Castle Street). This is an inexpensive French bistro serving traditional Breton (buckwheat) pancakes and more exotic French dishes. Close by is the New Vietnam with an interesting menu. Spicy grilled pork on vermicelli is £5.95.
Italian restaurants abound in Canterbury, also in Castle Street is Pinocchio's Trattoria, (tel 01227 457538) at no. 64, has good Italian food, in particular a wide range of pastas from £5.50.
A few doors down in the direction of the High Street you can sample that wonderful British contribution to world cuisine, fish and chips! The best that can be bought for miles, it's recommended that you have them served 'open' and you eat them outside in the few chairs provided or walking along the street - outdoor eating at it's best.
Very popular with young people is the Cafe des Amis du Mexique (tel. 01227 464390) (read a review on www.theladsonline.com/eating/viewfood.php?id=67 0 just past the West Gate. It serves authentic Mexican cuisine which is very different from the usual repetitive mix of beans, cheese and chilli. There's a cheerful atmosphere and the prices are reasonable. Enchiladas are £5.95.
The lively Irish pub and restaurant Casey's (tel. 01227 463252, 5 Butchery Lane) offers boiled or steamed vegetables with meat, mashed potatoes and a gorgeous thick gravy for around £6.95, with traditional Irish entertainment most evenings - different from the usual mix of French fries with everything.
Finally, our last recommendation is the Old Weavers House Restaurant (tel. 01227 464660, 1 St. Peters St ) built in the 16th Century alongside the river that flows through the city centre. Low ceiling with original beams and narrow corridors. Delightful garden at the rear that overlooks the river is perfect in the summer months for al fresco eating. Simple but extensive menu at very reasonable prices.
Beyond the Weavers House and towards the West Gate Tower for about 100m is a further multitude of restaurants, probably another 10 - 15 eateries, too many to mention here but all good, we have not heard any adverse comments about any of them.
CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL.
Like most great Cathedrals, Canterbury Cathedral (tel. 01227 762862) evolved in stages over many years and it reflects a number of architectural styles. Touring the complex, including the beautiful cloisters, can easily absorb half a day. There are treasures tucked away in corners and a trove of associated stories for you to discover, so an official guided tour is recommended. There are one hour guided tours at 10.30am, noon, and 2pm for £2.80, or if the crowds are daunting or you prefer to wander at your own pace there is a Walkman tour for £2.70. There is an excellent guidebook available at 95pence. On weekdays and Saturday the Cathedral is open from 9am to 7pm from Easter to September, and from 9am to 5pm from October to Easter. Choral Evensong is at 5.30pm, 3.15pm on Saturday. On Sunday it is open 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and from 4.30 pm to 5.30 pm; Choral Evensong is at 3.15pm.
The traditional approach to the Cathedral is along Mercery Lane, which used to be lined with small shops selling souvenirs to pilgrims, to Christ Church gate. Once inside the gate, turn right for 50m, to get an overall picture.
St.Augustine's original Cathedral burnt down in 1067. Construction of another Cathedral started fairly soon afterwards in 1070 by the first Norman archbishop but only fragments now remain. In 1174 most of the eastern half of the building was destroyed by fire but the magnificent crypt beneath the choir survived. The fire presented the opportunity to create something in keeping with the Cathedral's new status as the most important pilgrimage site in England. In response, William of Sens created the first major Gothic construction in England, a style now described as early English. Most of the Cathedral east of Bell Harry tower dates from this period.
In 1391 work began on the western half of the building, replacing the south-west and north-west transepts and nave. The new perpendicular style was used, and work continued for over 100 years, culminating in 1500 with the completion of Bell Harry. Subsequently, more has been subtracted than added, although the exterior has not changed substantially.
The main entrance is through the south west porch which was built in 1415 to commemorate the English victory at Agincort. From the centre of the nave there are impressive views east down the length of the church, with its ascending levels, and west to the window with glass dating from the 12th century.
From beneath Bell Harry with its beautiful fan vault, more glass that somehow survived the Puritans is visible. A 15th century screen, featuring six kings, separates the nave from the choir. Becket is believed to have been murdered in the north-west transept. A modern alter and sculpture mark the spot. The adjoining Lady Chapel has beautiful perpendicular fan vaulting. Descend a flight of stairs into the Romanesque crypt, the main survivor of the Norman cathedral. The Chapel of Our Lady at the western end of the crypt has some of the finest Romanesque carvings in England. St. Thomas was entombed in the early English eastern end until 1220. This is where Henry II was whipped for Becket's murder and is reputed to be the site of many miracles. The Chapel of St. Gabriel features 12th Century paintings, and the Black Prince's Chantry is a beautiful perpendicular chapel, donated by the prince in 1363 and now used by the Huguenots (French & Belgian Protestants).
Exit the crypt to the south-west transept. The Chapel of St. Michael includes a wealth of tombs, including that of Archbishop Stephen Langton, one of the chief architects of the Magna Carta. The superb 12th century choir rises in stages to the High Alter and Trinity Chapel. The screen around the choir stalls was erected in 1305 and evensong has been sung in this inspiring space every day for the last 800 years. St Augustine's chair, dating from the 13th century, is used to enthrone archbishops. It's next use will be in February 2003 when the next Archbishop of Canterbury is enthroned.
The stained glass in Trinity Chapel is mostly from the 13th Century and celebrates the life of St. Thomas and the miracles attributed to him. St. Thomas's shrine no longer exists, but it is still possible to see the alabaster shrine of Henry VI, buried with his wife Queen Joan of Navarre, and the Black Prince's tomb with its famous effigy along with the prince's shield, gauntlets and sword.
Opposite St. Anselm's Chapel is the tomb of Archbishop Sudbury who. as Chancellor of the Exchequer, was held responsible for a hated poll tax. He was beheaded by a mob during the Peasant's Revolt of 1381. His body was buried with a ball of lead; his head is in East England in a church in Suffolk. Leave the Cathedral by the South West door and turn left towards the city wall. Queningate is small door through the wall which, according to tradition was constructed for Queen Bertha who used this door on her way to the Church of St Martin before the arrival of Augustine.
Go around the eastern end of the Cathedral and turn right into Green Court, which is surrounded on the East side by the Deanery and the north side (Straight ahead) by the early 14th century Brewhouse and Bakehouse. In the north west corner (Far left) is the famous and not to be missed Norman Staircase which was constructed in 1151.
Finally, do not miss the Cathedral shop where you can find some unique gifts and mementoes of your visit to Canterbury Cathedral, and why not treat yourself to a restful cup of tea in the Cathedral Cafe, although you can also drop straight back into the 21st Century by visiting Starbucks coffee shop which is immediately alongside the Cathedral entrance.
Please note that all details given on this page are offered in good faith, and prices shown are subject to change and are shown for guidance only. All information has been provided by Ersham Lodge , Canterbury, and is for the benefit of all tourists to Canterbury.